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From Toulouse Airport, the 5 best scenic drives in the Pyrenees are within reach in under three hours.
The Pyrenees form the natural frontier between France and Spain, stretching 430 kilometres from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. From Toulouse Airport, five of the finest scenic drives in Western Europe are within reach in under three hours. No other major French city sits as close to mountain driving of this quality.
These 5 best scenic drives in the Pyrenees cover the full range of what the mountains offer:: a mountain pass that has featured in the Tour de France more than 80 times, a UNESCO World Heritage natural amphitheatre with a waterfall taller than four Eiffel Towers stacked end to end, a prehistoric valley with cave paintings 13,000 years old, the most elegant spa town in the mountains, and the wildest valley in the western range with its unmistakable pyramid peak.
A note before setting out: the A64 autoroute from Toulouse toward Tarbes, Lourdes and Pau carries toll charges of approximately €8 to €15 depending on distance. The mountain D-roads – the D918, D921, D934 and all others used on these drives – are completely toll-free. Fill up with fuel before heading into the mountains: stations above the foothills are sparse.
The 5 Best Scenic Drives in the Pyrenees: At a Glance
Drive 1: The Tour de France Legend
The Col du Tourmalet is not the highest paved road in France. It is not even the highest pass in the Pyrenees. But it is the most legendary. The pass has featured in the Tour de France more than 80 times – more than any other climb in the race’s history.
Eddy Merckx, who won five Tours, described it as the most legendary col in the Pyrenees. On a clear morning, before the coaches arrive, with the summit ridge rising above La Mongie ski station and the Pic du Midi de Bigorre visible to the east, the claim is not difficult to understand.
From Toulouse Airport, take the A64 west to Tarbes then the D935 and D938 south through Bagnères-de-Bigorre to Sainte-Marie-de-Campan, where the D918 begins its climb west toward the summit at 2,115 metres.
The road is wide enough for two cars on most sections, though the final approach from La Mongie narrows considerably as it winds to the top. The views from the summit on a clear day extend across the peaks to the Spanish border.
The descent to Luz-Saint-Sauveur on the western side is the more dramatic of the two approaches – tighter, with steeper drops. From Luz, the D821 north returns via Lourdes to the A64 and Toulouse.
Those with time and energy should add the Col d’Aspin extension: from Campan, the D918 also runs east for 24 kilometres to the Col d’Aspin at 1,489 metres. Less famous than the Tourmalet but considered by many who know the mountains to be the more beautiful of the two.
| DRIVE 1: THE TOUR DE FRANCE LEGEND | Via A64, D935, D938, D918 | FROM TLS |
|---|---|---|
| Sainte-Marie-de-Campan | Start of D918 mountain road | 1hr 20min |
| Col du Tourmalet (2,115m) | Highest paved pass in the French Pyrenees – 80+ Tour de France appearances | 2hrs |
| Luz-Saint-Sauveur | 14th-century fortified church – Knights Hospitaller | 2hrs 30min |
| Col d’Aspin (1,489m) [extension] | Add from Campan via D918 east – 24km each way | +45min |
| 200km circuit | Full day |
Insider Tip: The Tourmalet is typically open June to October. Exact dates vary with snowfall – check hautes-pyrenees.fr before driving in late spring or early autumn. In July and August, the summit is at its least crowded before 9am. The Pic du Midi de Bigorre observatory (accessible by cable car from La Mongie) is one of the finest viewpoints in the Pyrenees and takes approximately two hours.
Drive 2: The Great Amphitheatre
Cirque de Gavarnie via the D921
The Cirque de Gavarnie is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that looks, from the valley floor, like something assembled by mythological hands rather than geological ones.
Three walls of mountain rise to 3,000 metres on three sides, forming a natural amphitheatre nearly 14 kilometres in circumference at its rim. Down the back wall falls the Grande Cascade de Gavarnie – at 1,457 metres, the highest waterfall in France and one of the highest in Europe.
Victor Hugo visited in 1843 and called it ‘the most magnificent edifice that has ever been built by the hand of nature.’
From Toulouse, the A64 runs to Lourdes – itself worth a brief stop at the Château Fort de Lourdes, a medieval fortress on a rocky outcrop above the shrine town that offers the finest views of the Pyrenean foothills from any building in the region and is rarely crowded.
From Lourdes, the D821 south passes through Argelès-Gazost and the D921 continues through Luz-Saint-Sauveur – where a 14th-century fortified church built by the Knights Hospitaller stands beside the main road – and on to the village of Gavarnie at 1,357 metres.
From Gavarnie village, the cirque floor is 45 minutes on foot, approximately four kilometres return and entirely flat. The waterfall is visible from the car park but the walk to the base of the cascade is where the scale of it registers.
The 3 walls of the cirque create their own weather system – cloud can form and clear in minutes inside the amphitheatre on days that are clear lower down.
| DRIVE 2: THE GREAT AMPHITHEATRE | Via A64, D821, D921 | FROM TLS |
|---|---|---|
| Lourdes | Chateau Fort de Lourdes – finest Pyrenean foothills viewpoint | 1hr 45min |
| Luz-Saint-Sauveur | Fortified Knights Hospitaller church beside the main road | 2hrs 15min |
| Gavarnie village (1,357m) | UNESCO World Heritage – 45min walk to cirque floor, 1,457m Grande Cascade | 2hrs 30min |
| 175km | Full day |
Insider Tip: Park at the village car park (charged in summer) and walk rather than taking the horse ride offered at the car park. The walk is entirely flat and completely manageable. Cloud in the cirque tends to lift by mid-morning. Arriving around 10am usually gives the best combination of clear skies and good light on the Grande Cascade. Combine with Luz-Saint-Sauveur’s fortified church on the way back – it takes 20 minutes and is one of the most unusual medieval buildings in southern France.
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Drive 3: The Prehistoric Pyrenees
The Ariège Valley via the N20
The Ariège valley is the least visited of the main Pyrenean valleys from Toulouse, which makes it the most rewarding for those who prefer quiet roads to famous ones. The A66 south delivers you to Pamiers in under an hour.
From Pamiers, the N20 south is one of the finest approach roads in the French Pyrenees: the valley walls close in progressively as you head toward the mountains, the river narrows and the rock shifts from sedimentary foothills to the dark ancient schist of the mountain core.
Foix arrives first, its three-towered castle – one round, one square, one octagonal – perched on a rock above the confluence of the Ariège, Arget and Dard rivers. The castle has never been captured. Continue south on the N20 through the Ariège gorges to Tarascon-sur-Ariège, where the Parc de la Préhistoire offers an introduction to the valley’s extraordinary prehistoric inheritance before continuing five kilometres south to the Grotte de Niaux.
The Grotte de Niaux contains cave paintings 13,000 years old: bison, ibex and horses drawn in black manganese oxide on the walls of the Salon Noir. Niaux is among the finest prehistoric cave art sites in Europe and considerably less visited than Lascaux. Book tickets in advance – capacity is limited to 70 people per day and summer dates fill weeks ahead.
The cave maintains a constant temperature of 12°C year-round; bring a layer. The N20 continues south to Ax-les-Thermes, a small spa town with natural thermal springs channelled since the 13th century. The public foot baths on the central square – hot water from the volcanic ground, free of charge – are one of the more unexpected pleasures in the Pyrenees.
| DRIVE 3: THE PREHISTORIC PYRENEES | Via A66, N20 | FROM TLS |
|---|---|---|
| Foix | Chateau de Foix – three towers, three rivers, never captured | 1hr 10min |
| Grotte de Niaux (Tarascon) | 13,000-year-old cave paintings – book in advance, 70 person daily cap | 1hr 30min |
| Ax-les-Thermes | Free thermal foot baths on central square – volcanic springs at 77 degrees C | 1hr 50min |
| 165km | Full day |
Insider Tip: Book Grotte de Niaux as early as possible – entry is capped at 70 people per day and summer months fill weeks in advance. Tickets: Niaux.net. The cave maintains 12°C year-round regardless of outside temperature: bring a fleece or light jacket. Photography inside is permitted without flash. The foot baths at Ax-les-Thermes on the central square are free and worth 20 minutes of anyone’s time.
Drive 4: The Queen of the Pyrenean Spas
The Comminges Valley via A64 and D26
The Comminges valley approaches the Pyrenees more gradually and more gracefully than any other route from Toulouse. The A64 west reaches Saint-Gaudens in an hour, and the D26 south from there enters the Comminges through a pastoral landscape of meadows and ancient villages, the snow-capped Pyrenees appearing on the horizon ahead as you drive south.
Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges arrives first: a hilltop town of Roman origin built on a site occupied continuously since the Iron Age. Julius Caesar’s general Pompey founded the city of Lugdunum Convenarum here in 72BC; it grew to a population of 60,000 under the Empire before the Franks destroyed it in the 6th century.
What remained became one of the finest medieval pilgrimage towns in southern France. The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Saint-Bertrand, UNESCO-listed, contains 16th-century wooden choir stalls of extraordinary craftsmanship – 66 carved seats, each different, depicting saints, mythological figures and Pyrenean peasants with a freedom unusual for their period.
Bagnères-de-Luchon, 45 kilometres further south, is known throughout the Pyrenees as the Queen of the Pyrenean spas. The Allées d’Etigny, the main boulevard lined with lime trees, runs from the thermal baths to the town centre.
The view south from the end of the boulevard, directly toward the snow-capped ridge of the high Pyrenees, is one of the finest town vistas in southern France.
In late afternoon the high peaks turn amber before the valley drops into shadow. The thermal baths have been operating in some form since Roman times and still take natural sulphurous water from volcanic springs at 69°C.
| DRIVE 4: THE QUEEN OF THE PYRENEAN SPAS | Via A64, D26, D625, D618 | FROM TLS |
|---|---|---|
| Saint-Gaudens | Gateway to the Comminges valley | 1hr |
| Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges | Roman city (72BC) – UNESCO cathedral with extraordinary 16th-century choir stalls | 1hr 20min |
| Bagneres-de-Luchon | The Queen of the Pyrenean spas – Roman thermal baths still operating | 2hrs 10min |
| 185km | Full day |
Insider Tip: The circuit works well as a return via the D618 from Luchon through the Pique valley, passing the former Roman baths site at Valentine before rejoining the A64. Arrive in Luchon in late afternoon if possible: the light on the Pyrenees from the Allées d’Etigny is exceptional in the final hour before sunset. The Superbagnères cable car above the town runs in season and gives a direct view onto the Val d’Aran and the Spanish side of the range.
Drive 5: The Pyramid Peak
The Ossau Valley and Col d’Aubisque via D934 and D918
The Ossau Valley is the wildest valley in the French Pyrenees and the furthest of these five drives from Toulouse Airport. Allow an early start – Laruns, the gateway to the valley, is two hours fifteen minutes from the airport – and plan for a full day. The effort is repaid in full.
From Toulouse, the A64 west runs toward Pau, the elegant city where Henri IV was born and whose Boulevard des Pyrénées offers one of the most celebrated panoramic views of the Pyrenean chain in France.
From Pau, the D934 heads due south through the Béarn countryside to Laruns and the entrance to the Ossau Valley. The valley’s defining landmark appears before Laruns: the Pic du Midi d’Ossau at 2,884 metres, a volcanic plug that rises above the surrounding ridgeline in the shape of a near-perfect double-horned pyramid. It is the most recognisable peak in the French Pyrenees.
The Lac de Bious-Artigues at 1,422 metres, twelve kilometres south of Laruns on the D934, reflects the Pic du Midi d’Ossau in its surface on calm mornings. The walk around the lake takes 45 minutes on a completely flat path. The silence at the lake in early morning – before the walkers arrive from Laruns – is complete.
From the lake, return through Laruns and take the D918 west and north over the Col d’Aubisque at 1,709 metres. Another Tour de France classic: the summit road is cut into cliff faces on both sides with a sheer drop on the outer edge. In good conditions it is one of the finest mountain road experiences in France. The descent to Argelès-Gazost takes 40 minutes and joins the A65 for the return to Toulouse.
| DRIVE 5: THE PYRAMID PEAK | Via A64, D934, D918 | FROM TLS |
|---|---|---|
| Pau | Birthplace of Henri IV – Boulevard des Pyrenees panoramic view | 1hr 45min |
| Laruns | Gateway to Ossau Valley – first views of Pic du Midi d’Ossau (2,884m) | 2hrs 15min |
| Lac de Bious-Artigues (1,422m) | Mirror reflection of Pic du Midi d’Ossau – 45min circular walk | 2hrs 35min |
| Col d’Aubisque (1,709m) | Tour de France classic – road cut into cliff face with sheer drop below | 3hrs |
| 240km | Full day (early start recommended) |
Insider Tip: The Col d’Aubisque is typically open June to October. The road over the Cirque du Litor section is cut into sheer cliffs and feels exposed in strong winds or rain – check conditions before committing to this section. Start Drive 5 no later than 7am from Toulouse to reach the lake before the light changes and still have time for the Aubisque circuit before dark. An overnight stay in Pau or Laruns makes this the finest drive in the collection.
Driving Notes for the French Pyrenees
A standard UK driving licence is accepted throughout France. Drive on the right.
Toll roads:
The A64 autoroute from Toulouse toward Tarbes, Lourdes and Pau carries tolls totalling approximately €8 to €15 depending on exit point. The N20 south through the Ariège valley is toll-free. All mountain D-roads – including the D918, D921, D934 and D26 – are completely toll-free.
Mountain passes and seasonal closures:
The Col du Tourmalet (D918) is typically closed from late October to late May. The Col d’Aubisque (D918) follows similar timing. The D921 to Gavarnie and the N20 through the Ariège valley remain open year-round. Check pass conditions at the Parc National des Pyrénées official website before driving in late autumn or early spring.
Road widths:
The D918 over the Tourmalet and Aubisque accommodates two cars on most sections but narrows at hairpin bends. The access road to Lac de Bious-Artigues is standard single-carriageway mountain road. A compact car is recommended over a large vehicle for all 5 best scenic drives in the Pyrenees.
Fuel:
Fill up in Toulouse, Tarbes, Lourdes, Foix, Saint-Gaudens, Pau or Laruns before heading into the mountains. Fuel stations above the foothills are sparse and in some valleys absent entirely.
Speed limits:
130 km/h on autoroutes (110 km/h in wet conditions), 80 km/h on single-carriageway national roads outside towns, 50 km/h in towns and villages.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are all 5 best scenic drives in the Pyrenees accessible in a standard hire car?
Yes. All 5 best scenic drives in the Pyrenees are suitable for standard compact or economy hire cars. The D918 over the Tourmalet and the D918 over the Aubisque are paved mountain roads. A compact car is preferred over a larger vehicle for the narrower hairpin sections and for parking at the coves and viewpoints.
When is the best time to drive in the Pyrenees?
May and June offer the best combination of open passes (from early June), lighter traffic, wildflowers on the mountain meadows and long daylight hours. July and August are the busiest months – arrive at the Tourmalet and Gavarnie before 9am. September and October offer golden light, harvest festivals and the quietest roads of the season. Most high passes close from late October.
How long does it take to drive from Toulouse Airport to the Pyrenees?
Between one hour (Foix, Saint-Gaudens) and two hours thirty minutes (Gavarnie, Ossau Valley) depending on the drive. No other major French city sits as close to mountain driving of this calibre.
Is it worth hiring a car in Toulouse to drive the Pyrenees?
It is the only practical way to experience them. The mountain passes, prehistoric cave sites, natural amphitheatres and spa towns on these five drives are not accessible by regular public transport. A hire car from Toulouse Airport is the starting point for all of them.
Are there toll roads on these drives?
The A64 autoroute carries tolls of approximately €8 to €15 from Toulouse depending on your exit. The N20 through the Ariège is toll-free. All mountain D-roads are completely free to drive.
Can I drive the Pyrenees in winter?
The Ariège valley drive (Drive 3) and the Comminges valley drive (Drive 4) are accessible year-round. The Gavarnie drive (Drive 2) remains open in winter but snow above Luz-Saint-Sauveur requires caution. The Tourmalet and Aubisque passes (Drives 1 and 5) are closed from approximately late October to late May. Winter driving in the Pyrenees foothills is straightforward; above 1,000 metres, winter tyres or snow chains are recommended.
Ready to Drive the Pyrenees?
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